Chef Adison Lee’s svelte modern Japanese restaurant has ambition and style in a part of the city — Memorial Gateway — where those dining qualities are scarce. He and his team are as adept at fashioning lapidary sashimi plates as they are delivering precisely executed hot foods and meticulous nigiri sushi. There’s a nice attention to seasonal vegetables — mushrooms flown in from Japan, perhaps, seared on cast iron; or hay-smoked lotus root and shishito peppers; or a super-suave butternut miso soup. I’m always happiest ordering from the Tsukiji market nigiri and sashimi specials, which are beautifully handled. (Ask about the house-cured tuna, done in antique style.) Thoughtful cocktails and a well-chosen wine list round out the experience.

WHAT TO ORDER: Nigiri sushi specials flown in from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market; opulent grilled salmon belly under a crackly skin; A5 Wagyu nigiri; foie gras nigiri.

PRO TIP: Chef Lee’s new a la carte Sunday brunch menu sounds enticing, with such dishes as snow crab cake with 60-degree egg; smoked salmon salad; tuna sliders; uni pasta; or a jewel-like Japanese yam salad.

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